Keep Camellias Blooming - A Guide To Preventing Bud Drop

words and images by Lynsey Hughes

MY last house came flanked with a divinely tall, mature Camellia japonica specimen which thrived in the shade of a two-storey neighbour and produced a stunning carpet of candy- pink blooms each winter. All this buddy love without a single scrap of attention from moi!

Opening Bud Stage 1

Bud Opening Stage 2

Bud Opening Stage 3

Fast-forward to my current abode and you’ll see me hovering, gloved-fingers crossed, over a stubby, shrubby as-yet-unidentified Camellia, waiting for the first tight bud to reveal her winter petals.

Last year I was bitterly disappointed in this little woody shrub, which survives on the edge of a bed filled with tree stumps; the remnants of shade long gone, and no doubt a contributing factor in the pathological rate of bud-drop we experienced last winter.

Bud failing to open

It started out with such promise, too. Branches from top to bottom, were laden with scores of tiny green orbs which developed long enough for a small burst of pink hue to peep through only to drop to the ground or stagnate on a branch until brown and crisp. Aghast, I consulted gardening friends, the internet and pored over countless reference books to find a clear answer to the rather common problem of Camellia bud-drop, also called bud-balling.

It seems the causes are largely unknown, but a few common themes appear: lack of water, too much water, too much sun, too many buds, incorrect soil pH levels and the plain ol’ fact that some types, like formal doubles, are just more susceptible. Among the practical tips gathered (see below), all except number three were carried out last Spring. It’s been a slow drum roll so far, but it’s almost showtime. My bud clusters are looking plump, green and encouragingly healthy. A couple have burst their barriers, but only time will tell if we’ll be rewarded with a much-wished for explosion of blooms.

Six Tips To Combat Camellia Bud-drop

1. Pinch out buds by one-third in Spring. Over-production of buds can dilute plant resources, resulting in no beautiful singles, doubles or anemones unfurling. Best to reduce the number of buds at the early stage to ensure the lucky survivors receive adequate nutrients.

2. Ensure soil never dries out. Buds need coaxing with an adequate supply of water to see them flower. Maintain constant moisture during Summer while buds are developing. During the flowering season, heavily budded plants should be soaked well and often - once a week, especially if rainfall is low.

3. Provide enough shade. Avoid direct early morning sun in Winter to prevent dewy buds from burning and perishing. Remember, most Camellias hail from a woodland environment. 

4. Prune dead wood and any crossing branches that restrict internal air flow. It’s basic shrub management to stop pests and disease taking hold. Remove spent flower heads at the end of each season.

5. Ensure soil pH is slightly acidic, between 5.5 and 6.5, by using a soil testing kit. Lower pH with applications of ammonium sulphate, commonly found in specialty Camellia fertilisers. Throughout the year, sprinkle used tea leaves (Camellia sinensis) at the base to provide a boost of tannic acid. Or better yet feed with a Camellia and Azalea fertiliser for the best results. We have a range available at Four Seasons Nursery

6. Mulch with old compost in Spring to keep roots cool and well fed. 

Tea leaves are harvested from the Camellia sinensis, 

 and can be fed to your growing camellia.

Fast Facts

NAMED after amateur botanist and Moravian Jesuit Priest, George Kamel, who surprisingly never laid eyes on the species, Camellias grow wild in Japan, parts of China, the Himalayas and Indo-China.

Commonly cultivated in the West as ornamental shrubs and trees, it was the tea variety, Camellia sinensis that was first taken from China by the British to colonial India over 200 years ago.

They love cool, moist roots and slightly acid soil. The darker the flower, the more sun it can handle, especially the `ideal for hedging’ sasanqua varieties. 

  



Happy Planting

Lynsey

The trick to trimming part 1: branches.

Apparently summer’s decided that going out gracefully is for cowards, and is throwing all kinds of tantrums in these final weeks of its reign. We’re getting record-breaking heat one day and frigid winds the next, a week of constant drizzle followed by seven days of perfect sunshine.

It’s actually pretty good growing weather for the young ones; the heavy rain gets the water deep down around the roots, then the hot sun draws the water up before it can cause rot or fungal issues (plus it has something to do with the whole photosynthesis bit I believe).

What it’s not so good for is the older growth, particularly on trees. Any branch that was even the tiniest bit brittle has now turned to fine bone china, due to the bouncing temperature and moisture levels. The next decent gust of wind is going to rip this weaker wood clean off the trunk, and anything it can’t tear off the tree will probably abandon on its own (do the Google for “Summer Branch Drop”; pretty interesting). This is almost always bad news, and so a pre-emptive strike during weather like this is a mighty fine idea. Just as a stitch in time saves nine, so a well timed trim will keep your damage bill thin! That is awful, and I’m sorry.

Anyway the first thing I have to say about trimming tree branches is that if you can’t reach it from the ground with the tools you have then call an arborist. Ladders leaning on branches are ridiculously dangerous. As is climbing a tree with some sort of blade in your hands. Leave this stuff to those who are insured for it.

The next thing I have to say is less condescending and extremely interesting; trees DON’T heal. At all. If a tree takes damage it is there forever, whether you can see it or not. What they do do is “occlude”, which basically means “cover up”. They will grow new tissue over the old wound, making it almost impossible to tell whether or not there is infection in it. A broken branch in 2002 can mean a dead tree in 2013, and few will be able to tell why.

Interesting Mike, yes. But so what?

Well, cheeky, you need to bare this in mind when trimming back dead or dying branches, as what you do now could end up having serious consequences down the track. Cleanliness is the key, for both your tools and how you use them.

Any organic residue on the teeth or blade of your tools can carry bacteria, and as you cut into a branch you’re basically poisoning the tree. Get into the habit of cleaning your tools after using them; a quick wipe, sharpen and dab of oil will not only keep the plants you use them on healthy, it will prolong the life of your tools as well. If you haven’t been doing this, and your tools now look like roman relics, come see us at Four Seasons Nursery; we have an excellent range for sale, for all kinds of budgets.

Now you’ve got clean tools you need to make clean cuts. A straight, square cut, on a slight downward angle, will keep the wound dry and minimise its surface area. This makes it extremely difficult for any harmful bacteria to get a foothold, so when the wound is occluded the tree won’t be absorbing its own doom. In terms of where to make the cut, well that depends on how much of the branch is damaged or dying. Normally though you’ll be taking it right back to the trunk, but remember to leave a good few centimetres of branch there so you don’t accidently graze the trunk when cutting (thus opening more door for infections to move in).

If you’ve got a tree with some branches you are unsure about, feel free to bring some photos into us here at the Nursery; we’ll have a look and make the best recommendations we can.

Cheers,

Mike.