Keep Camellias Blooming - A Guide To Preventing Bud Drop

words and images by Lynsey Hughes

MY last house came flanked with a divinely tall, mature Camellia japonica specimen which thrived in the shade of a two-storey neighbour and produced a stunning carpet of candy- pink blooms each winter. All this buddy love without a single scrap of attention from moi!

Opening Bud Stage 1

Bud Opening Stage 2

Bud Opening Stage 3

Fast-forward to my current abode and you’ll see me hovering, gloved-fingers crossed, over a stubby, shrubby as-yet-unidentified Camellia, waiting for the first tight bud to reveal her winter petals.

Last year I was bitterly disappointed in this little woody shrub, which survives on the edge of a bed filled with tree stumps; the remnants of shade long gone, and no doubt a contributing factor in the pathological rate of bud-drop we experienced last winter.

Bud failing to open

It started out with such promise, too. Branches from top to bottom, were laden with scores of tiny green orbs which developed long enough for a small burst of pink hue to peep through only to drop to the ground or stagnate on a branch until brown and crisp. Aghast, I consulted gardening friends, the internet and pored over countless reference books to find a clear answer to the rather common problem of Camellia bud-drop, also called bud-balling.

It seems the causes are largely unknown, but a few common themes appear: lack of water, too much water, too much sun, too many buds, incorrect soil pH levels and the plain ol’ fact that some types, like formal doubles, are just more susceptible. Among the practical tips gathered (see below), all except number three were carried out last Spring. It’s been a slow drum roll so far, but it’s almost showtime. My bud clusters are looking plump, green and encouragingly healthy. A couple have burst their barriers, but only time will tell if we’ll be rewarded with a much-wished for explosion of blooms.

Six Tips To Combat Camellia Bud-drop

1. Pinch out buds by one-third in Spring. Over-production of buds can dilute plant resources, resulting in no beautiful singles, doubles or anemones unfurling. Best to reduce the number of buds at the early stage to ensure the lucky survivors receive adequate nutrients.

2. Ensure soil never dries out. Buds need coaxing with an adequate supply of water to see them flower. Maintain constant moisture during Summer while buds are developing. During the flowering season, heavily budded plants should be soaked well and often - once a week, especially if rainfall is low.

3. Provide enough shade. Avoid direct early morning sun in Winter to prevent dewy buds from burning and perishing. Remember, most Camellias hail from a woodland environment. 

4. Prune dead wood and any crossing branches that restrict internal air flow. It’s basic shrub management to stop pests and disease taking hold. Remove spent flower heads at the end of each season.

5. Ensure soil pH is slightly acidic, between 5.5 and 6.5, by using a soil testing kit. Lower pH with applications of ammonium sulphate, commonly found in specialty Camellia fertilisers. Throughout the year, sprinkle used tea leaves (Camellia sinensis) at the base to provide a boost of tannic acid. Or better yet feed with a Camellia and Azalea fertiliser for the best results. We have a range available at Four Seasons Nursery

6. Mulch with old compost in Spring to keep roots cool and well fed. 

Tea leaves are harvested from the Camellia sinensis, 

 and can be fed to your growing camellia.

Fast Facts

NAMED after amateur botanist and Moravian Jesuit Priest, George Kamel, who surprisingly never laid eyes on the species, Camellias grow wild in Japan, parts of China, the Himalayas and Indo-China.

Commonly cultivated in the West as ornamental shrubs and trees, it was the tea variety, Camellia sinensis that was first taken from China by the British to colonial India over 200 years ago.

They love cool, moist roots and slightly acid soil. The darker the flower, the more sun it can handle, especially the `ideal for hedging’ sasanqua varieties. 

  



Happy Planting

Lynsey

Grow Like a Pro no. 2: Lavender.

It’s been so long since we did one of these that a skeptic might think the ‘series’ had been forgotten. Shame on you skeptic; we don’t forget things, we were just giving you enough time to get your orchids into good shape. Now that they’re all green and budding and bursting from their pots it’s time to leave them be (they thrive on neglect, remember). Let’s turn our attention this week to one of my all time favourites; Lavender.

Lavender (‘Lavandula’ botanically) is one of Mint’s many cousins, and has 39 different species within its genus. By far the most common are Lavandula dentata (French/Italian Lavender) and Lavandula augustifolia (English Lavender); you rarely see any of the others growing around Sydney.

Popular with aromatherapists and naturopaths, Lavender’s medicinal potential is (extremely) old news; the ancient Greeks knew of its calming properties, and it was used extensively in hospitals during World War 1. Its flower spikes are incredibly versatile; they’re used in dried flower arrangements and potpourris, teas, baked goods, as cake decorations, even (apparently) as a substitute for confetti at weddings. Apiarists will tell you that the honey made by bees fed on Lavender nectar is some of the best in the world, and it sells for king’s ransom in Europe.

But forget all this – unless you’ve got a several-acre backyard you won’t be growing lavender for its skills. You’ll be after its outrageous good looks.

Lavender flowers like crazy almost all year round; soft purple spires rising from a mass of delicate grey foliage. It smells as good as it looks too, and it’s a sure-fire way to bring in the birds and bees (literally; this is a family blog).

So how do you grow it? There are really only two main things to consider; drainage and pruning.

Lavenders like a drink but their roots love to rot; if you’ve got even a trace of clay in your Lavender bed they’re done for. If planting them in the ground it’s best to dig down about 600-700 millimetres, then spread a layer of sand about 100 millimetres deep. Backfill the rest of the hole with really free-draining soil mix, loaded with organic matter. Four Seasons Nursery has all the sand and soil you’ll need, in bulk and in bags. We can also help you out if your garden bed is nothing but clay, with a variety of soil conditioners and a heap of smiley advice-giving staff to talk you through it.

Aside from moisture the only other way a Lavender will spoil is if it is left alone for too long. They are the polar opposites to orchids; they need attention, frequently, in the form of a stylish haircut. Trimming your Lavender by up to about a third of its size every few months will stop it from developing the gnarly wooden ‘trunks’ they get, and keep it a nice dense bush with scores of flowers. Once they go woody there’s no going back; they’ll never be as dense and there will never be as many flowers. It’s pretty much a write-off at this point, which is sad and expensive. So keep your shears sharp, clean and close, maybe under your pillow, so you never forget. Your Lavender will thank you and you’ll have a perfect excuse to get a new pillow every couple of weeks. How good are fresh pillows! Very good.

And that’s pretty much it. Keep them in your sunniest  spot, keep them well fed, and keep an eye out for the usual suspects; aphids, mealy bug and co (though Lavenders have pretty good pest-resistant levels). Plant them in groups of at least 5 for best effect; the more the merrier with Lavender. We at Four Seasons Nursery have scores of them for sale, in different sizes and cultivars. Come choose a few today!

Cheers,

Mike.

Some winter warmth (colour wise at least).

Winter in Sydney is not nearly as grim as it’s made out to be. Don’t get me wrong, I hate it; it’s cold, it’s dark, and half of the trees in my area look dead (while the other half may as well be for all the growing they’re doing). But the claim that a winter garden is a stark and lifeless place is, quite simply, false.

There are scores of plants that produce flowers and fruit during the winter months, daring the birds and bees (and the more courageous/crazy gardeners) to brave the cold. The rewards for those that do are some of the most spectacular floral displays to be seen all year, and the cascading flame-like blooms of Pyrostegia venusta are one of winter’s standouts.

Commonly known as “Orange Trumpet Vine”, Pyrostegia is a vigorous climber that does what it says on the tin- swarms of orange flowers, shaped like simple wind instruments, grow in thick clusters all over the vine from May through to August. Hailing from South America, Pyrostegia can be found along the warmer coastlines of Australia, from Perth around to Sydney, thriving in full-sun positions. It has reasonable drought tolerance once established and works brilliantly as a cover over a boring fence or up a wall (with some wire or a lattice to assist it). A light trim after flowering will encourage healthy growth in the Spring, as will a feed with an organic fertiliser (such as “Organic Life Pellets”, available at Four Seasons Nursery) every three to six months.

If well fed and watered Pyrostegia has outstanding resistance to pests and diseases, and it won’t take over your garden like an Ivy or Wisteria. Four Seasons Nursery has plenty in stock all year round, so if you’d like to see some colour in your garden during Winter, or if you have any questions about how best to grow them, pop in to the nursery today and speak to any of our ever-friendly staff.

Cheers,

Mike P.

Purple- Autumn’s other colour.

The Autumn Show is in full swing this week, and with the air temperature cooling and the sun setting around six it’s the perfect time of year for after-work walking. You’ll see Pears and Maples blushing blood red, Liquidambars ablaze in shades of crimson and gold. But as the deciduous shrubs and trees all do their bit, flushed from competing for your “oohs” and “aahs”, another contender steps up in a brilliant cloak of purple to steal the show- the Tibouchina.

Originating from South America and comprising of more than 350 different species, the genus Tibouchina (“ti-boo-chee-nah”) is famous for its flowers: rich and vibrant shades of purple and pink, with clusters of claw-like stamens jutting out from the centre. They open en masse from March through to May, creating a truly eye-catching display that dramatically complements a garden’s autumn foliage.

There is considerable variation in size between the most commonly available cultivars, allowing you to choose the perfect Tibouchina for your garden, in spite of any height or width restrictions.  Tibouchina “Alstonville” will grow into a six metre high tree, as will the “Kathleen” variety, whose flowers are a delicate shade of pink. Tibouchina “Jules” is a small shrub, growing roughly one metre high and one metre wide, while the fairly new cultivar “Groovy Baby” is even smaller.

Tibouchinas thrive in a neutral to slightly acidic soil. They love the full sun, and will grow quickest when in an open, warm spot, with excellent drought-tolerance once established. They require very little maintenance and are highly resistant to pests and diseases, though frosts are to be avoided.

Four Seasons Nursery has a great range of the above-mentioned Tibouchinas in stock now, all covered in buds and looking for a new home. They, and we, hope to see you soon!

-Mike P.