Kick start you Natives

To all our loyal readers

Here is a great voucher you can use instore.

Just print is off and bring it in. More information at our website: www.fourseasonsnursery.com.au-coupons.

Hope to see you all soon
Matt

Brilliant Bromeliads For Winter Colour

ONE of the few benefits of possessing an overgrown garden is the treasure it can turn up, seemingly out of nowhere. Bromeliads are my particular booty and in the depths of winter when deciduous leaves are long gone and colour can be thin on the ground, these striking ground (terrestrial) and tree (epiphytes) dwellers stand out like dazzling jewels.

It’s the twinkle of winter colour I love best but members of the Bromeliaceae or pineapple family, also provide the solution to a host of site challenges. These exotic American perennials lend themselves very well to creative and unusual displays, especially in the shade of a tropical garden.

Provide interest to a leafless deciduous tree in winter. Epiphytic bromeliads happily grow up a trunk and can be tied into forked branches, spilling leaves from nooks and crannies along shady lower boughs. For even greater effect, dress with delicate silver tufts of a very different bromeliad sub-family, Tillandsia usneoides, the dreamy air plant, Spanish moss.

Create beauty on the move and pot up bromeliads to provide a dramatic accent of sculptural interest, indoors or out. Use a light, open potting mix with good drainage.

Often hardy, many bromeliad genus require little maintenance other than the removal of a spent mother plant to allow her offsets (pups) to thrive.

Bromeliads In Bloom Now

With a greek name meaning `spear tip’, the Aechmea genus is ideal for beginners and offers many species ranging in size from 30cm to 1m, all featuring colourful foliage and flowers.

try...

A clumping habit makes Aechmea gamosepala (Matchstick Plant), a cold hardy, epiphytic species from Brazil, versatile as a groundcover and tree adornment.  

or try...

Cultivated in Europe since 1828, the shade-loving slow grower, Aechmea fasciata (Silver Vase), grows to 1m, both on and off the ground. Wrap roots in moss and wire to rough bark for a stunning vertical display.
Named after Swedish botanist Gustav Billberg, the Billbergia genus offers several species of colourful rosetted epiphytes, however some flowers, like those of Billbergia pyramidalis, are relatively short-lasting.

 

or try...

Beautiful and practical, Billbergia nutans (Queen’s Tears) forms a dense weed suppressing ground cover and requires plenty of moisture.

 

FAST FACTS

THE pineapple, Ananas comosus, is the most famous member of the Bromeliaceae family and the first one to leave the New World after Columbus took it to Spain in 1493. It is the only one of 3,000 species grown for its edible fruits. All the rest are tropical American ornamentals highly regarded for their varied, architectural forms and vivid flowers. Over 99% of bromeliads will flower only once, soon after producing multiple pups to continue their life cycle. The family is named for Swedish botanist and medical doctor, Olaus Bromelius.

Happy planting!

Lynsey

Keep Camellias Blooming - A Guide To Preventing Bud Drop

words and images by Lynsey Hughes

MY last house came flanked with a divinely tall, mature Camellia japonica specimen which thrived in the shade of a two-storey neighbour and produced a stunning carpet of candy- pink blooms each winter. All this buddy love without a single scrap of attention from moi!

Opening Bud Stage 1

Bud Opening Stage 2

Bud Opening Stage 3

Fast-forward to my current abode and you’ll see me hovering, gloved-fingers crossed, over a stubby, shrubby as-yet-unidentified Camellia, waiting for the first tight bud to reveal her winter petals.

Last year I was bitterly disappointed in this little woody shrub, which survives on the edge of a bed filled with tree stumps; the remnants of shade long gone, and no doubt a contributing factor in the pathological rate of bud-drop we experienced last winter.

Bud failing to open

It started out with such promise, too. Branches from top to bottom, were laden with scores of tiny green orbs which developed long enough for a small burst of pink hue to peep through only to drop to the ground or stagnate on a branch until brown and crisp. Aghast, I consulted gardening friends, the internet and pored over countless reference books to find a clear answer to the rather common problem of Camellia bud-drop, also called bud-balling.

It seems the causes are largely unknown, but a few common themes appear: lack of water, too much water, too much sun, too many buds, incorrect soil pH levels and the plain ol’ fact that some types, like formal doubles, are just more susceptible. Among the practical tips gathered (see below), all except number three were carried out last Spring. It’s been a slow drum roll so far, but it’s almost showtime. My bud clusters are looking plump, green and encouragingly healthy. A couple have burst their barriers, but only time will tell if we’ll be rewarded with a much-wished for explosion of blooms.

Six Tips To Combat Camellia Bud-drop

1. Pinch out buds by one-third in Spring. Over-production of buds can dilute plant resources, resulting in no beautiful singles, doubles or anemones unfurling. Best to reduce the number of buds at the early stage to ensure the lucky survivors receive adequate nutrients.

2. Ensure soil never dries out. Buds need coaxing with an adequate supply of water to see them flower. Maintain constant moisture during Summer while buds are developing. During the flowering season, heavily budded plants should be soaked well and often - once a week, especially if rainfall is low.

3. Provide enough shade. Avoid direct early morning sun in Winter to prevent dewy buds from burning and perishing. Remember, most Camellias hail from a woodland environment. 

4. Prune dead wood and any crossing branches that restrict internal air flow. It’s basic shrub management to stop pests and disease taking hold. Remove spent flower heads at the end of each season.

5. Ensure soil pH is slightly acidic, between 5.5 and 6.5, by using a soil testing kit. Lower pH with applications of ammonium sulphate, commonly found in specialty Camellia fertilisers. Throughout the year, sprinkle used tea leaves (Camellia sinensis) at the base to provide a boost of tannic acid. Or better yet feed with a Camellia and Azalea fertiliser for the best results. We have a range available at Four Seasons Nursery

6. Mulch with old compost in Spring to keep roots cool and well fed. 

Tea leaves are harvested from the Camellia sinensis, 

 and can be fed to your growing camellia.

Fast Facts

NAMED after amateur botanist and Moravian Jesuit Priest, George Kamel, who surprisingly never laid eyes on the species, Camellias grow wild in Japan, parts of China, the Himalayas and Indo-China.

Commonly cultivated in the West as ornamental shrubs and trees, it was the tea variety, Camellia sinensis that was first taken from China by the British to colonial India over 200 years ago.

They love cool, moist roots and slightly acid soil. The darker the flower, the more sun it can handle, especially the `ideal for hedging’ sasanqua varieties. 

  



Happy Planting

Lynsey